Sipping Butter Tea with the Family in Langtang Valley

In December 2023, during our Christmas holidays, the family came together when my parents revisited their long-held but unfulfilled dream of trekking in the Himalayas. To our surprise, Nepal had been on their travel list for years. Both in their early fifties, had trekked in the Alps during their youth but had never set foot in the Himalayas.

And so, the planning began. We started by researching online – when to travel, what to expect, and which routes might suit us. While my sibling and I quickly decided to join, our two younger cousins also expressed interest. Soon enough, we were a group of six, poring over information about Nepal: its mountains, culture, and trekking seasons. The resources available were abundant, detailed itineraries, guides to different regions, videos, and travelogues, all useful in their own way. Yet, given our preferences and group dynamic, we wanted something more personal.

A Nepali friend recommended Karmaia Adventures, and through them we were connected with Mingma, who carefully designed a custom itinerary for Langtang Valley. He struck the right balance between adventure and comfort, allowing us to move at our own pace. From arranging trekking permits to securing transport and lodging, Karmaia took the logistical weight off our shoulders.

We began in Kathmandu, where the streets buzzed with life. After a day of exploring the capital, we set off in a private jeep towards Syabrubesi, the trek’s starting point. The winding mountain roads revealed terraced hillsides and deep valleys, foreshadowing the landscapes that awaited us.

The first day on the trail was gentle, leading us through rhododendron forests, suspension bridges, and the steady sound of the Langtang Khola rushing by our side. For our parents, the slower pace was welcome. They paused often to take photos or rest at the small teahouses dotted along the route. We were joined by Nirmal, a young guide, who encouraged frequent breaks, reminding us that trekking in Nepal is as much about enjoying the journey as it is about reaching the destination.

As we climbed higher, the terrain shifted. Forests gave way to alpine meadows, and the air grew crisper. Every bend revealed something new – snow peaks glistening in the distance, yaks grazing on the slopes, mani walls carved with Buddhist prayers guiding our path. Evenings were equally special: gathered in teahouse dining rooms, sipping traditional hot butter tea around the stove, and sharing the day’s stories. It became a time for bonding, for laughter, and for learning. Nirmal taught us phrases in Nepali, explained the symbolism of prayer flags, and pointed out local herbs used in traditional medicine, and by the end of the trek, he too was like family.

Arriving at Langtang Village, rebuilt after the devastation of the 2015 earthquake was deeply moving. Listening to stories of the tragedy, we were humbled by the resilience of the local community. The trek became more than just a journey through mountains; it was also a connection with a culture and history that ran deeper than the scenery.

The final stretch to Kyanjin Gompa felt like stepping into another world. At over 3,800 metres, the valley opened wide, framed by towering peaks such as Langtang Lirung. Our younger cousins scrambled up to Kyanjin Ri for a sunrise hike, while our parents chose a quieter morning at the monastery, sipping fresh butter tea and soaking in the stillness. Everyone found their own rhythm, yet we always came together in the evenings to marvel at what we had experienced.

Trekking in Nepal can seem daunting – permits, transport, language barriers – but Karmaia Adventures ensured everything ran smoothly. From passes and teahouse stays to providing a guide who brought the trail to life, Mingma wove practicality with heart.

On the last day, retracing our steps down the valley, we reflected on what had brought us there. It wasn’t just the allure of the Himalayas; it was the chance to share something unforgettable across generations. Our parents rediscovered their trekking spirit, while we children and cousins bonded in ways only possible in the mountains. Together, we carried home a piece of Nepal that would perhaps be shared over Christmas through generations.